Now Beer This: Black IPAs, the Oxymoron Beer Style

What does “IPA” stand for? India Pale Ale. Pale. That’s right. So when you call a beer a Black IPA, you’re obviously contradicting yourself; how can a beer be black and pale at the same time? How can we live with this!?

Here’s the answer: Shut up. It doesn’t matter.

Some people get their lederhosen in a wad about this contradictory name, and insist on calling this beer an American Black Ale or Cascadian Ale. Every time I have ever said these, I have instantly grown an oiled hipster beard and BCGs, a dark red flannel, and skinny overalls have magically appeared on my person. But, look, call it what you want. It really doesn’t matter. What matters is the beer, and if the beer is good. So is it?

Yes. Black IPAs – or, if you insist, American Black Ales — are wonderful beers, especially this time of year. There’s something about the dark, smoky malt and dank American hop character wafting together that evokes Autumnal camp fires and cozy beer sessions.

You might think this style is a recent invention, and in one respect it is. If you think about the entire history of brewing, there are records from the 1800s of beers which would at least be close to today’s idea of this style. This is not exactly a craft beer innovation, but is a bit of an alteration to long-standing tradition. Most of you know that IPAs rose in popularity due to their ability to survive the trip from England to India due to their hopping levels. What you might not know is that there was even more intensely hopped porter that made that journey than intensely hopped pale ales. Crazy, huh?

While they are generally black as night, they aren’t — at least according to the BJCP style guidelines — intended to just be a really roasty stout that has a lot of hops. Dark malt flavor should be subtle. Toffee, with touches of coffee or chocolate, should be present, but shouldn’t fight with the hop character.

It’s a great combo of flavors that you should seek out immediately. Would you like some recommendations? I knew you would!

Duck Rabbit Hoppy Bunny: A Farmville, NC product, this was my introduction to this style and it keeps me going back. Roasty, toasty, with bright, fresh hop notes and bitterness. A true exemplar of the style.

Deschutes Brewery Hop in the Dark: Despite insisting on calling it “Cascadian,” this is an excellent and unique version of this style. Chocolate and Coffee with citrusy hops, it goes against some brewers’ recommendations to avoid citrusy hops with this style and proves that rules are often stupid, especially in brewing.

21st Amendment Back in Black: Piney/Citrusy hops up against a caramel/chocolate background, this is easily in my top 3 of this style, and is readily available in NC.

Are there any Chapel Hill/Carrboro breweries that do this style? Why, yes! Craftboro currently has their Lamb’s Pride Black IPA in their fall rotation. Heavy on the Columbus hops, this is a DANK monster and is a true treat for hop heads. Carolina Brewery makes the creatively named Black IPA from time to time and Big Boss in Raleigh has their Night Knight, too. Foothills in Winston, while not exactly around the corner, offers their Frostbite, which is also available in bottles.

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