It’s the end of October almost, and still no frost. Years ago, the frost date around here was October 15 and you could put money on it. The lingering summer is lucky this year since so many restaurants are depending on people being able to eat outside. The towns have wisely given them wide leeway to spread out onto the sidewalks and parking lots. I hope they will be allowed to continue after the pandemic has passed. People sitting at outdoor tables having a good time adds an appealing touch to our two townscapes.
So, which restaurants are doing what? First of all, most places are good about updating their websites, so check before you head out as things are changing as we go along. Lots of people are choosing to only be open for a few days around the weekend and at recently reopened Crook’s Corner and Elaine’s, they prefer reservations. At La Residence and 411 West, you can walk in. Some places, like Oakleaf in Carrboro, that were only doing take out have added limited sit-down service, again preferring reservations. Glass Half Full is still takeout only, but they have reopened their wine shop.
There have been clever additions and innovations. The Catering Company of Chapel Hill has morphed into Ghost Kitchen, an online restaurant that delivers ready-to-eat meals to your home. The menu is large and they don’t ask for much advance notice. At Dips, mid-month, you could get a whole menu of State Fair favorites like fried pickles, corn dogs and roasted ears of corn. This was to go only, off one corner of her front porch. I wish they were still doing that. I only got by once, and fried pickles are still on my mind. At Imbibe on Henderson Street, Mandy Brown is clearing out the inventory from her upstairs bar by offering $5 shots at her one-person drink window. Last night I had a jigger of Larceny Bourbon while I waited for my smoked turkey leg to go. Lantern has continued with their occasional weekend pop up sidewalk parties. Last week salt and pepper shrimp and the bento box from the old days had crept back onto the menu. Then there’s Bowbarr. They don’t serve food, but they will deliver cold prosecco right to your door, as well as other wines, beers, snacks and oddly, beautiful textiles from Mexico. (Amanda Barr’s mother owns the perfect hotel in downtown Oaxaca and it is the source.)
Speaking of Mexico, the food trucks seem to be flourishing. There’s a new one in the parking lot on weekends and I zoomed by on my bike one afternoon, I heard someone call out “Hey! Chuley!” (Chuley is my nickname in the Mexican community here. The reason why is a long story.) I wheeled around to discover my old friend Antonio Jimenez manning the window. He and his mother have two trucks. Doña Lilia’s is the name of the business. I hadn’t seen Antonio in ages. He worked for me years ago at Crook’s Corner. I think I actually might have fired him once, but I don’t remember why and it doesn’t seem to be an issue now anyway. I left with a generous steak quesadilla.
We’re very lucky when we cook at home too. The nice weather has meant that the markets are still going great guns with countless varieties of peppers, squashes, pumpkins and greens. There are still gorgeous flowers and last week, remarkably, Perrywinkle Farm had a huge basket of beautiful green beans. Lastly, Salvador Bonilla, the new owner of Tom Robinson’s Seafood, has started bringing fresh oysters up from Carteret County. They were all gone by Saturday afternoon.
I’ve gotten pretty good at foraging as I ride my bike around town. I can spot honeysuckle flowers, blackberries or persimmons at 10 miles an hour. The long pretty fall has produced a second blooming of some roses, and I came upon some abandoned bushes that I am pretty sure had not been sprayed, so I decided to make one last batch of rose petal marmalade. Years ago, friends brought me a jar from Italy. I found it remarkable so I learned to make it. Most remarkably, it’s good on strong cheeses like gorgonzola or on that assertive Danziger from our own Chapel Hill Creamery. Here’s the recipe.
1 cup unsprayed rose petals rinsed in cool water
3 cups sugar
The juice of one lemon
3 cups water
Before you start, the color and fragrance of your marmalade will depend on the color and fragrance of your rose petals. Pale colored, subtly scented roses will work, but you might decide to cheat by adding a capful rose flower water. In any case, put the flower petals, one cup of the sugar and the lemon juice in a mixing bowl and massage all of this together with your fingers until you have a sort of paste. You’re not trying to shred the petals. Meanwhile, bring the rest of the sugar and the water to a boil. Add the flower mixture and keep at a gentle boil for between twenty-five and thirty minutes. This will thicken, but not set up like a fruit jelly. Store in glass jars. You may seal the jars if you like, but this will keep fine for several months in the refrigerator.
Support your local restaurants, clubs and bars. And vote!
“Just The Bill, Please” is a regular column on Chapelboro.com penned by local culinary legend Bill Smith. Born and raised in New Bern, Bill Smith spent 25 years heading up the kitchen in Crook’s Corner — and over the years, he accumulated the accolades to match his incomparable takes on classic Southern food.
Chapelboro.com does not charge subscription fees. You can support local journalism and our mission to serve the community. Contribute today – every single dollar matters.
Comments on Chapelboro are moderated according to our Community Guidelines