It suddenly seems that we are in one of the few countries in the world where it’s OK to peer over the edge of our foxholes. By mid-May, suddenly a lot of the restrictions on public gathering in North Carolina were relaxed – just in time for UNC’s graduation weekend. Restaurants could squeeze in a few more seats. Grandmother could come to Chapel Hill after all. Any question about the safety and effectiveness of the vaccines is answered when you compare the United States to much of the rest of the world since January.
With the help of a very pretty spring, people in Chapel Hill and Carrboro are falling over themselves to get caught up with their socializing. An unscientific survey tells me that take outs and deliveries are dropping off as diners fan out, especially to places that offer outside seating. After making a particularly gruesome batch of egg salad at home, I decided that before I wrote this month’s essay that I should fan out from the restaurants that I had been reporting on in past months and check out some new places. In quick succession, I visited Hawthorne and Wood, Kitchen and Tandem. Duty called, after all, and being vaccinated boosts one’s courage.
I had three rather luxurious dinners, (certainly compared to egg salad) in the space of a week. I didn’t do things like this before the lockdown, but as everyone keeps saying these days, nothing is the same anymore. Honestly, everything I had at all three restaurants was wonderful. This isn’t a restaurant review column, but I will mention a few things to give an idea of what awaits you.
At Hawthorne and Wood, we sat on the patio and split a million things. The sautéed flounder served with a broth of lemon grass infused coconut milk was splendid. Plus, I got to finish up with a glass of Madeira, which I adore and which doesn’t show up that often on wine lists.
At Kitchen, Chef Dick Barrows sent us an amuse bouche of little brandade fritters with aioli. Again, I love brandade and it doesn’t turn up that often. The wine was lovely as was my hanger steak frites with its shallot reduction.
I was alone at Tandem. I sat at the bar, and typically, Chef Younes Sabouh wouldn’t let me darken his door without sending me plates of food before I could finish reading the menu. I was already a fan of the goat cheese briwats. I can now add the shrimp with pork belly to that list. I started with a killer gimlet made with Conniption Navy Strength Gin. Enough said.
Our farmers markets can speak for themselves right now, so I don’t have to. Bring extra bags, as agriculture is really going to town. Word on the street is that Weaver Street Market in Carrboro is reopening its lawn in June. Things will seem almost normal then, for sure.
I’ll end with an unusual slaw that I used to make when I worked at Crook’s Corner. It’s actually from Provence, but it goes very well with the things that we make here that are served with slaw.
Carrot Slaw
Makes about three cups
- 3 large cloves of garlic, peeled
- 5 carrots, peeled and sliced medium thin
- 1 lemon
- ¼ teaspoon salt
- ¼ teaspoon sugar
- 2 Tablespoons olive oil
Bruise the garlic and toss it with the sliced carrots in a mixing bowl. Zest the lemon, then quarter it. Add the zest and all of the lemon pulp, minus the seeds, to the carrots. Stir in the salt and sugar and allow to stand for half an hour. Put everything, juice and all into the bowl of a food processor. Pulse to grind coarsely to the consistency of slaw. Stir in the oil. This will keep several days, refrigerated.
“Just The Bill, Please” is a regular column on Chapelboro.com penned by local culinary legend Bill Smith. Born and raised in New Bern, Bill Smith spent 25 years heading up the kitchen in Crook’s Corner — and over the years, he accumulated the accolades to match his incomparable takes on classic Southern food.
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