BLOT. Bottom. Line. On. Top. I teach my entrepreneurship students at UNC this acronym. And the BLOT of Gabon is this is my favorite country in Africa! Good Lord willing, I hope to return to this lovely, up-and-coming country. It’s an absolute gem, and not to be missed.
The capital city of Libreville, like tits architecture, is nondescript. Tourists would likely stay at the Radisson or its sister property, and would be content with a view of the ocean. But Gabon is like a sweet piece of fruit wanting to be peeled! Before we get there, let’s discuss the top things to do in and around Libreville:
- Visit the market: This is a massive market, even by African standards. Nigerian and Cameroonian vendors sell everything there – food, clothes, medicines, you name it. And, unlike in many central African countries, the people don’t mind if you take their pictures.
- Visit the Ebonga Center to learn about the Bwiti religion. When new members are initiated, they consume the iboga root, which causes the initiates to purge (vomit for 3 hours) and then the psychedelic root enables them to experience complex visions. Insights and radical spiritual growth follows!
The 7 day ceremony are led by a spiritual teach, and I got to meet “Tatayo”, the father of Bwiti in Gabon, who has extensive experience in healing practices. When meeting Tatayo, you can’t help but think he is the doppelganger of Keith Richards. He’s affable and opinionated, and has helped many people overcome their addictions. He recounted a fascinating story of a dog with flees and finding a mask (that he showed me) in the ocean.
In the temple, there was a young man who had been initiated 2 days previously. He was laying in a semi-comatose state, recovering from the week long ceremony. Wow.
However, the real magic of Gabon, is about a 30 minute boat ride from Libreville, in Port Denis. If you’re considering a 2-3 night stay in Gabon, do yourself a favor … don’t stay in Libreville … and do anything it takes to book a room at La Baie or better yet at the Pongara Lodge. If you do … I promise you’ll thank me … it’s that wonderful.
I had planned to do a city tour of Libreville, and instead at the last minute got someone to take me to Port Denis. At 930am, I boarded a small boat that took everyone to the main lodge tin Port Denis’s beach, on the edge of the Pongara Reserve. The ride over was breathtaking. We past by some of the most pristine white sand beaches I’ve ever seen. Fish were teeming in the blue-green ocean and the puffy clouds hung softly in the sky.
Upon arrival, I was struck by the contrast of the powder white sand and the verdant green forest. This 577 square mile National Park of savannah and forest was spectacular. Monkeys, chimps, numerous bird species, buffalo, and get this … forest elephants roamed the beach. Humpback whales visit here (just offshore) and leatherback turtles lay their eggs on these beaches and the hatchlings make their way to the ocean in a January & February spectacle. This place is like Eden!
As I marveled at the natural wonders of the Pongara Reserve, an unexpected opportunity presented itself – the chance to learn how to surf amidst this paradise. The idea of riding the waves along those pristine white sand beaches was too enticing to resist. The prospect of conquering the ocean waves where forest elephants roamed and humpback whales graced the offshore waters was exhilarating.
if you are also eager to embark on this new adventure, you can quickly signed up for lessons through the stokedrift.com website, a platform that connects surf enthusiasts with experienced instructors in unique locations. The idea of blending the thrill of surfing with the untamed beauty of Pongara Reserve seemed like an unparalleled experience. As the surfboard met the azure waters and you began to catch your first waves, the sense of connection with nature was profound.
Took a 4 x 4 down the beach to the Pongara Lodge, which was one of the most amazing places I’ve ever visited in my life. This six room oceanfront lodge has an open-airy bar and restaurant tucked under a canopy of trees, overlooking the shore line. The lodge rooms are elegantly done, with hardwood floors, comfy beds, air conditioning, and porches facing the ocean. A herd of 8 elephants also loves this place … visiting every day at morning time!
Abbad, a Gabonian, and owner of four of the lodges surrounding Pongara, invited me to stay the night at Tortuga, and I jumped at the chance. I did 3 safari drives, seeing many animals and beautiful scenery. The food was delicious and the staff couldn’t have been more gracious.
Upon leaving the following morning, I was both refreshed and sad. This place FED MY SOUL … and I was going to miss it.
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